Pati and I are excited to share with you our first, of hopefully many video tutorials. In keeping with our blog name, we want you to actually “see” how we work with fabric, color, design and inspiration. Please check back with us as we have fun sharing our teaching tips on many subjects.
Wow! What a great response we have had to our video tutorial, Cutting and Sewing Curves. Based on all the comments received, I think it may have taken the fear out of sewing curves for some of you.
I absolutely love adapting curves to the improvisational piecing that I have been experimenting with lately. Now that we have discussed the basics of this in Laura’s post last week, I thought I would share some tips and tricks that I have found helpful, along with , here we go – sewing curves into your curves. Think of this as Advanced Curves 101. It’s not really hard, you just need to get in there and give it a try! Come on now, embrace your curves!
Let’s start with your basic curved piece section. What if you don’t like what you made? What if there is just too much of one fabric, or you want just a sliver of something else added in? Want to do some experimenting?
When I teach classes on the Making Waves Quilt, sometimes a student decides there is a little too much of one fabric in a section of their waves. This is where the fun begins! Determine which fabric is too heavy and slice right into the section that is bothering you. By inserting a new fabric, you are not only taking out the weight, but also adding movement and interest. Introduce a new shape to your curve, or slice into more than one section, and you will be adding a whole new level of design.
Move your sections around to decide how large of a section to insert. The piece you are inserting could be just a small sliver . . .
or a big chunk of fabric. Trust your judgment. You probably already know what you need it to do.
If not, you could be like me and just do the opposite of what seems most obvious. I guess I like to stir things up.
This time, I chose to go with a tiny sliver, then offset it a bit.
I like the way it just peeks through. Especially the little intersection of the three fabrics. It seems graceful, doesn’t it?
Hmmm, file that idea away for a future project. As I said, I like to stir things up, so I chose to crop them into 2 separate blocks. The possibilities are endless! Give it a try!
A few tips to keep in mind:
When cutting into a section – remember that you will be losing 1/4″ on either side of your cut.
Cutting through more than one section is encouraged. It will add interest to your final piece.
Watch your 1/4″ seam allowance when sewing. It is very easy to get off, which will affect your curve.
If your fabric starts to bunch up while sewing, lift your presser foot and try to readjust things. This usually helps. If not, you may have to take out a few of your last stitches, then proceed.
If your curve does not lay down properly after pressing, take out the stitches in problem area, pat the curve back into place correctly and pin accordingly. When you flip it over, trim off the excess so that the raw edges match, then re-sew new curve.
Notes on Hashmarks and Pinning:
A reader asked why we don’t mark on the right side of fabric (inside the seam allowance). Do what works best for you. I personally like to be able to make big hashmarks, so that I don’t have to spend much time looking for them. I also feel more comfortable pinning while the right sides are joined and facing each other. This way I can view the marks on the outer (wrong) sides, .
At some point, you will get comfortable and decide you don’t need to mark and pin. That is perfectly fine. I will warn you, though, that when I stop marking and pinning, my curves start to get a little wobbly and out of skew. If you want perfect, gracefully pieced curves, take the time to mark and pin. Especially when they are more than 8″ in length.
Share your photos!
I am collecting photos for a blog post on Favorite Pincushions. If you have a favorite pincushion, take a photo and post it with on ourt SHWS Facebook page or share it on the SHWS Instagram account, #favoritepincushion, #seehowwesew.
Congratulations to Jean Stringfellow and Dee Carter for winning the Making Waves Quilt Pattern! We will be contacting you for your mailing information.
Several of our readers have asked for a tutorial on cutting and sewing curves without using a pattern. We have made a video tutorial showing how easy it is to add curves to your quilting projects. This is the technique we used on our Making Waves pattern.
It’s fun, it’s easy and if you haven’t ever done it, I suggest watching the video and give it a try. It will be permanently living in our How-To Videos page, which can be accessed through the button above. While you are there, be sure to check out some of our other helpful videos.
We are offering two copies of our pattern to two of our readers. Please leave a comment by end of day Friday, July 31st if you would like a chance to receive a pattern.
Earlier this week, I wrote in my post, A Little Happiness with Cotton Couture Solids, about the latest project I have been playing with. My paper pieced placemats were created to tell a color story using Michael Miller’s great collection of solids. As you can see, no two are alike, which made my job soooo much fun. It was as if I were making 4 different miniature quilts!
As complicated as they look – once I got the hang of it, they were actually quite easy. I thought it would be fun to share with you the process, a few tips, along with a free downloadable for you to play with and create your own paper pieced project.
Writing the instructions is definitely harder than making the actual project! I tend to work improvisationally, so it is always a challenge for me to translate my work into words. Since this is a free download, I am going to take a different approach today and simply talk you through the process – there will be more specific directions in the download.
So, put the rotary cutter down, grab a cup of coffee and let’s just walk through the steps together to make these little gems. I urge you give it a try, be open to experimenting and you will end up with your own unique creation.
I recommend printing them on a lightweight newsprint or specialty foundation paper. If you have never paper pieced before, Connecting Threads has a very thorough blog post on all things paper piecing. It also discusses the different types of paper to use.
My finished placemats are 12 x 18”, but both dimensions can be easily adjusted to make a pillow, tote bag, or whatever your heart desires.
I chose 6 colors of solids in small cuts, a white “sashing” for impact, and gray for the final edge, face binding and backing. Experimenting with mixing solids and prints to get the look you want. That’s what this is all about, right? Playing!
I cut strips of each color to make the variegated stripes. Don’t let the printout scare you. It is actually quite easy and a great way to practice paper piecing. It takes a little time, but you will soon get a rhythm going and you will never more perfect 1/4″ piecing than this!!!
Paper piecing is one of those things that makes a lot more sense as you go through the motions. Do it once and you will get it forever. Once the sheet is filled with your lovely piecing, follow the directions on the printout to trim the sections out to the correct widths and tips on how to extend the lengths.
Now that you have some practice under your belt, try your hand at the triangle designs. I suggest you cut a 3″ x 9″ wide strips of fabric to start. The size you need will vary with each design. After one or two passes, you will know how big the rectangles need to be. Remember, stitch and flip, stitch and flip. More directions are listed on the printout. Believe me, you will knock them out in no time. If you like one design more than the others, try repeating it in a different color combination. Mix and match for a new look.
Once all your strips are pieced, it’s time to play with your design!!! Yay! That should make you happy. If not, hmmmm, maybe you need to watch my video:
Inspired to finish now? Great! Line up the strips to your liking. The width of the solid strip in the center is determined by the amount needed to reach your desired width. This is where you might be happy to have a little extra length to position your sections where you want them.
Time to sew your little gems together. Here is a hint: leave the foundation paper on until you have sewn all the white sashing in place. It will help keep your lines neat and straight. I cut my sashing oversized, stitched one side in place, then trimmed to 1/2″. I then stitched the next strip in place. It worked really well and kept the wavy seams away. I also decided to insert gray as the last few on each end and then finished with a 2 1/2″” strip as my edge.
I kept the quilting very simple, in the ditch and not too much of it. I chose a Faced Binding, so as not to distract from the design. For more on Faced Bindings, read Jennifer’s Round’s post Infinity Edges in the Quilts.
And there you have it! Happy Little Placemats for you to brighten your summer table with. I hope you share your finished projects with us on our SHWS Facebook Page or catch me on Instagram.
As always, thanks for reading! Have a great weekend.
Since many of you have requested instructions on making the Memory Board Game I made in a previous post, I’ve decided to write a short tutorial giving the simple instructions. It’s a fun and easy project to make, using vinyl chalkboard fabric on the cover. It is a perfect “quiet” game doubling as both a drawing board and matching game board. Start collecting your favorite fun fabrics and kid-type prints and get ready to create! In case you missed the original post on this project, it was included here, with the review of Lisa Fulmer’s new book “Craft Your Stash”.
The finished size of the game board is 10-1/2″ x 15-1/2″. It folds in half like a book and is secured on the side with a ribbon tie. You can certainly make your game board any size, in fact you may want to adjust it to accommodate the size of the picture squares, or rectangles. Just have fun with this one! Will make an adorable game for a special little one in your life.
Here’s what you will need:
10-1/2″ x 15-1/2″ piece of vinyl chalkboard/blackboard fabric
Two 10-1/2″ x 15-1/2″ pieces of felt
Two 2-1/2″ x 10″ pieces of Timtex or Peltex (heavyweight stabilizer)
Twenty- four kid-prints or fun fabrics; dots, numbers and letters work well too. May be more or less, depending on size of prints.
1/2 yard of fusible web
20″ piece of 1″ ribbon, cut in half
Thread & glue
Rotary cutter – I used a scalloped edge blade for added interest
A walking foot will be helpful for stitching through the layers.
Box of colored chalk
Fabric to make small pouch to store chalk and matching squares.
1. Press the fusible web onto the wrong side of all the kid prints.
2. Cut the fabrics into squares, using the rotary cutter. Need two squares of each image. Remove the paper backing from the fusible web.
3. Arrange one-half of the squares onto one piece of felt, leaving a larger space in the center to allow for folding in half.
4. Arrange the other (matching) set of picture squares onto the other piece of felt.
5. Press to secure the picture squares and then stitch both horizontally and vertically approximately 1/4″ from the edges of the squares.
6. With the right side of the chalkboard fabric facing out, layer with the pieces of stabilizer and then one piece of felt.
7. Insert one piece of ribbon on each side of the board, between the layers. Use a little glue to hold in place.
8. Stitch through all layers around the entire edge of the board.
9. Use the rotary cutter to cut around the picture squares which were stitched to the second piece of felt. These are used to match/cover the picture squares stitched to the board.
Here’s the final game, front and back.
10. Consider making a small fabric pouch for storing the matching squares along with a box of colored chalk.
Hope you found this helpful. Until next time everyone, take care everyone.
This week it’s my turn to share my contribution to our Quilt-Along project, Blackbirds and Blossoms, Oh-La-La! If you have been following along with us, these pieces will complete the center of the quilt top. If you are newcomer to this fun group project, it’s certainly not too late to start. All of the instructions can be found in our Pattern Pages. Please join the fun!
I was given the task of designing a block for the corners of the quilt. The center floral designs seemed to call for the addition of birds. With this in mind, the idea of creating birdhouses to fit into the corners provided the perfect setting for a quartet of simple, whimsical birds. This is a super-easy-to-construct birdhouse block and it adds a nice corner element to the center floral medallion.
Here’s what you will need to make four Birdhouses:
House front: Four 6-1/2″ x 10-1/2″ pieces
House top: One 11-1/4″ square. Cut the square twice into quarters diagonally to yield four triangles.
Roof: Two 1-3/4″ x 42″ strips. Cut the strips to make four 1-3/4″ x 9-1/4″ pieces and four 1-3/4″ x 10-1/4″ pieces.
Background: Two 13″ squares. Cut each square twice into quarters diagonally to yield eight triangles.
1. Sew a Background triangle to each short side of the House Front pieces, aligning the bottom edges.
2. Use your cutting tools to remove the excess Background and straighten the top edge, as shown.
3. Sew a 1-3/4″ x 9-1/4″ piece of Roof fabric to one short side of the House Top triangle. Then use the 45-degree angle marking on the ruler to cut the excess fabric even with the bottom edge of the House Top.
4. Sew a 1-3/4″ x 10-1/4″ piece of Roof fabric to the adjoining short side of the House Top triangle. Then use the 45-degree angle marking on the ruler to cut the excess fabric, as shown. This completes the top half of the Birdhouse.
5. Join the top and bottom sections together, matching seams where the House Front and House Top pieces intersect.
6. Press the seam in the direction of the bottom half of the birdhouse.
Easy enough? Yes, of course! Please join me on Friday as I give instructions and hints for adding the Birdhouse opening as well as the birds.
It’s no surprise that my daughters know the difference between good fabric and the not-so good stuff. When my daughter Molly was ordering linens for her upcoming wedding, the choices she had for napkins were not up to her high standards. She thought it might be better to make rather than rent them. Makes sense, right? This way they will be hers to keep—all 120 of them, I can’t argue with that one.
We were both inspired by some beautiful linens at Pottery Barn and felt they looked best with mitered corners. So, off we went to the store. We were lucky enough to find a bolt of 54″ wide linen. I cut 18″ squares, making six napkins per yard.
Here’s how I made the napkins:
1. Start at the center point of one side and press the raw edge 1/4″ to the backside (if there is one). The corners will fold and miter more easily if you work and press in a counter clockwise direction. Note that the top right hand edge is left unpressed at this time. It will be turned and pressed after working completely around the napkin.
2. Turn and press again. I turned these 1″ as I prefer a wide hem. You can adjust to your liking.
3. Rotate the napkin and repeat the process, turning and pressing first 1/4″ and then 1″ to form the hem.
4. Take the napkins to the sewing machine and starting on one side, stitch close to the folded edge. Before reaching the corner, stop and turn the top fold under itself to form a miter. A pin, tip end of small scissors, stiletto or seam ripper is helpful for this step.
5. Continue stitching to the inside corner. With the needle in the down position, raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric. Continue stitching, repeating the mitering treatment at each corner.
That is it. It doesn’t get much easier. Now to decide how to fold them. Check out these fun options here. I made a few demonstration napkins using some Kaffe Fassett shot cottons. They work up beautifully and I especially like that the fabric is the same on both sides. Think I’ll be making some of these for myself. I’m sure you will agree that I deserve them!
I hope to show you the bridesmaids robes next month. It’s been pretty fun and creative here–hoping the same is true for you.
As you might imagine, with less than four months to go before the first of two big weddings, I find myself knee deep in projects. Please don’t read this as a complaint because I am loving every minute of it. It simply means that, instead of working on new quilt patterns and tutorials to share with you, I am taking this time to share some of the many small projects that are happening here at “Wedding Central” (as my husband refers to it.)
We are chipping away at the list one day at a time. However, it seems that just as soon as I cross one item off the list, another one magically appears. How does this happen?
Yesterday I made a bow tie for the little ring bearer. It is so darn cute and super easy that I thought it would be fun to share my process with a tutorial. Perhaps you would like to make one for a special little guy in your life?
1. Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, sew the two 2-1/2″ x 12-1/2″ pieces of main fabric and interfacing together, leaving approximately 2″ open for turning. (Note: ignore those diagonal lines printed on the interfacing.) With right sides together, fold both the neckband and loop pieces in half lengthwise and stitch 1/4″ away from the raw edges, as shown.
2. Turn the bow piece right side facing out and carefully use a tool or pencil to gently push the corners to a point. Hand stitch the opening closed. Press firmly. Also turn both the neckband and loop pieces right sides facing out, and press.
3. Getting the hardware in the right position on the neckband was a bit tricky for me at first so I will try to make this as clear as possible. Run first the “slider” and then the “eye” onto one end of the neckband, as shown.
4. Next, fold the end (shown on the left side above) to the backside and run it through the center bar of the slider. Turn and finger press approximately 1/2″ of the raw, short end of the neckband onto the backside to secure. It should look like this:
5. Place the “hook” onto the opposite end of the neckband, turning the short end to the backside and hand stitch in place to keep the hook from slipping.
6. Divide the bow piece into thirds (approximately every 4″) and fold back and forth, as shown.
7. Pinch the folded bow together at the center point and then use some heavy thread to hold it secure.
8. Position the completed neckband onto the wrong side of the bow, pin to secure. Then run the loop around the center point of the bow, covering the wrapped threads. Turn under the raw edges and hand stitch to secure.
Note: I did not stitch through to the neckband during this step. However, the neckband will slide and you may want to tack it in place once you have determined the exact needed size for your little guy.
With a few modifications, I think this design would also work well as a headband for a sweet little girl . . . just a thought! Friday I’ll share my easy mitered corner napkins. Then stay tuned as the next project will be robes for the bridesmaids. I just purchased this lovely new fabric from Verna Mosquera’sRosewater line for Free Spirit Fabrics. I’m getting my serger tuned up and ready to roll. This will be fun!
Thanks for letting me share this special time with you. As always, sending you my best and hoping you are finding time to fill your souls with creative projects.
Well, if you recall, I promised to reveal the contents in today’s posting. But first a little background. I’m lucky enough to be part of a group of five creative women who meet from time to time to share our latest projects, offer inspiration (and–occasionally–moral support), and just to enjoy each other’s company. Each year we plan a holiday dinner to celebrate our friendship and to participate in a secret Santa exchange. As we’re all avid quilters, it’s not unusual for some–if not all–gifts to be items we’ve crafted ourselves.
This year, I drew Kim Butterworth as my “giftee.” Here’s what Kim found inside that package.
I love the idea of keeping a special book as a journal, sketchbook, or idea book, and–as Kim is a super creative lady–I suspected she might too. Rather than purchasing a decorative book from a stationer or bookstore, I thought it would be fun to create something more personal. Here’s how I did it.
The cut sizes of the cover and lining fabrics, fusible, and batting will depend upon the size of the book you plan to cover. The book I chose measured approximately 6″ x 8 1/2″, with a 1/2″ wide spine. We’ll use that for our example.
Figuring Measurements and Cutting
(Tip: Keep track of the measurements by writing them down and labeling them as you go.)
1. Double the width of the cover and add the width of the spine. To this figure, add 6″ for the book flaps and 2″ for turnover allowance. Label this measurement A. (Example: 6″ width of book x 2 = 12″ + 1/2″spine + 6″ flaps + 2″ turnover = 20 1/2″.)
2. Add 2″ to the length of the book for turnover allowance, and then add another 1/2″ for “wiggle room.” Label this measurement B. (Example: 8 1/2″ length of book + 2″ turnover + 1/2″ wiggle room = 11″.)
3. Cut the cover fabric and one piece of lightweight fusible equal to measurement A x measurement B. (Example: 20 1/2″ x 11″.)
4. Subtract 2″ from measurement A. (Example, 20 1/2″ – 2″ = 18 1/2″). Label this measurement C.
5. Subtract 2″ from measurement B. (Example, 11″ – 2″ = 9″.) Label this measurement D.
6. Cut one piece each of cotton batting, fusible web, and lining fabric equal to measurement C x measurement D. (Example, 18 1/2″ x 9″.)
No more math. Now comes the fun part!
Making the Book Cover
(Note: Construction is similar to that used for the checkbook cover I shared with you last December.)
1. Fuse the lining fabric, right side up, to the batting using the matching-sized piece of fusible web.
2. Apply the larger (matching-sized) piece of fusible web to the wrong side of the cover fabric.
3. Center the prepared batting, lining side up, over the fusible-web side of the prepared cover fabric. Starting with the two long sides, turn the cover fabric to the lining; press to fuse. Repeat for both short sides, squaring the corners; press. Clip excess fabric at the corners on the diagonal.
4. Fold the unit in half, lining sides together; press. Unfold, and then fold both ends of the unit inward 3″; press. Insert the book to check for fit.
5. Remove the book; refold the cover. Measure and mark the center of the front and back of the cover (not the flaps) for ribbon placement.
6. Center a length of decorative ribbon over the marked guideline, making sure to leave tails for tying. Use matching thread to stitch the ribbon to the front and back cover.
7. Quilt and/or embellish as desired. I used stencils to trace and fuse Kim’s name to the front cover. An embroidered monogram, rows of decorative stitching, lace, buttons, and beads are just a few other options. Be creative!
8. Refold the two flaps back toward the center, lining sides together. Starting with a few backstitches, topstitch a 1/8″ seam all around the perimeter of the unit. Finish with a few backstitches.
Insert the book, tie the ribbons, and your gift is complete!
I hope you find time for some stitching this holiday season! Best wishes . . .
P.S. Click here to read Jennifer’s earlier profile of Kim Butterworth, and to see some of her wonderful work.